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Mirhleft

Heading south from Tiznit to Guelimim, you have a choice of routes: a fast inland road across scrubby desert via Bou Izakarn, where the road to Ifrane de l’ Anti-Atlas and the Tata oasis heads off east into the Anti Atlas; or a more circuitous journey along the coast, by way of the splendid old Spanish colonial port of Sidi Ifni. Most people will probably choose to do one route down and the other back, which is a good idea, especially as Sidi Ifni often turns out to be an unexpected highlight for many visitors.

Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: Mirhleft

The route down the coast from Tiznit to Sidi Ifni passes, around the midway point, the roadside village of MIRHLEFT, a friendly, bustling little place, set back a kilometer from a good beach. Buses and grands taxis from Tiznit could drop you here – or you could use Sidi Ifni as a base. The beach itself is a beautiful, totally undeveloped curve of sand, with crashing waves and strong currents; it attracts surfers and camper vans.

Mirhleft

The village also hosts a Monday souk, devoted mainly to secondhand items, and there are several cafes and five basic hotels. Four of these are on the village’s main street, the best being the Hotel Farah (062 12 06 81) with a friendly, English-speaking proprietor. The Hotel du Sud (048 71 90 24) and the Hotel Tafoukt (048 71 9077) are also clean and bright. Prices vary with demand. For camper vans there is an accepted parking area, along a track leading from the waterstand to the beach. The best place to stay however is the Auberge des ‘Trois Chameaux (048 71 91 87, www.3chameaux.com), a classy maison d’hote located in a 1935 Spanish fort that overlooks the village from the hill above, lovingly refurbished with comfortable en-suite rooms and a swimming pool.

To the south are further beaches, of which the best are Plage du Marabout (3km from Mirhleft, by a prominent marabout tomb) and Plage Aftas.