The Hotel Salam has the best meals, and there’s a newer, jazzier place, the Cafe Restaurant Arnassa, 139 Av Takana (daily 8am-11 pm; moderate priced), where food must be ordered at least an hour in advance. For cheaper eating, there’s a row of fried fish and tagine spots at the beginning of the Agadir road near the PTT, and Cafe Jour et Nuit just across the junction on the Route de Tan Tan (24hr; cheap). The Hotel Salam has a bar, but nearly all its customers are male.

Several of the hotels and cafes put on…

Taxis are likely to do a journey in about two-thirds of the time a bus would take (though CTM now runs a few non-stop express buses). Buses, on the other hand are safer and more comfortable, though on some older buses leg room is extremely lim­ited and long journeys can be rather an endurance test for anyone approaching six…